|
I had just learned that the New York Times had dedicated a complimenting article to Tel Aviv, and found myself in a place that should've been on the cover – Dallal in Neve Tzedek. Just like its surroundings, the restaurant has magically come to touristic life, with exclusive European antiques and lovely textures right in the heart of south Tel Aviv. All this architectural beauty with chef Golan Garfunkel in the kitchen (who had already worked at Pastelina, Manta Ray, was a suchef to Haim Cohen at Keren and at restaurants which received 3 Michelin stars, mind you) – together they are the cure for the Monday blues.
The official reason for the visit was the new summer menu (which retained some of the old favorite specials). To get the full impression we received a selection of appetizers, two entrées (one was a special) and two desserts, which made us wonder whether the restaurant had its own pastry shop and gallery. To complete the experience of the cover image, god set us up with lovely weather at the end of July and so we sat at the nicest table, right next to the bar on the patio.
We started with a whiskey sour (36 NIS) and a glass of Donnhoff Riesling 2006 (21 NIS) with homemade buns with butter and delicious eggplant cream. The selection of appetizers included: Vegetable Carpaccio (44 NIS) – diced tomato, cucumber, kohlrabi and zucchini in olive oil, lemon, "Hameiri" cheese and hyssop – a simple dish with a nice appearance and great combination of flavors; Seviche of fish - diced cucumber, Tazos olives and shallots (52 NIS), which proved that the chef feels confident enough to tone it down a little; Fish Carpaccio with yogurt, teriyaki, red onions and herbs (52 NIS); Beef Carpaccio with tomato salsa, radishes and parmesan (54 NIS), which was the least successful because of the dominance of the Chipotle oil; Sautéed Scallops with a cream of red beans and eggplant cappuccino (52 NIS) – originally with calamari rings, which ran out (no complaints here); Hearts of Romaine Lettuce with diced pears, bacon, pear vinaigrette and Saint Moore cheese wrapped in fillo (48 NIS) – original and excellent; and last but definitely not least, Heart of Eggplant with delicious mushroom ragu in vegetable stock and Cafelotiri cheese (44 NIS). This type of dish can be found anywhere, but there's something special about this one. Besides, the selection of entrées provides a great opportunity to come with a group of friends and share with everyone.
The two entrées were the Veal Kebab over Frike (smoked wheat), red onion in sumak, tehina and yogurt cappuccino (88 NIS) and the Sea Bream Fillet with red organic rice and cured lemons (120 NIS). The main ingredient was just an excuse for the delightful sauces and garnishes (by the way, the combination with sweet cream or milk was worth it every time).
We examined the ever-changing business menu (served on weekdays from 12:00 to 18:00) over Kir Royal (24 NIS) and Grappa (34 NIS), and managed to leave room for a few desserts: the Sable of rice and figs (38 NIS) was delicate, tasteful and ideal for those who do not like too much sweet. It included a crispy sable dough bottom with vanilla cream, rice pudding and figs. Also, there was a sliced fig with yogurt ice-cream and red-wine syrup. For those who must have chocolate there's a trio of chocolate Crème Brule, hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice-cream and a chocolate mousse on a brownie that was to-die-for (45 NIS).
After we realized we couldn't stay the night, we lifted ourselves up and took a look at the nearby pastry shop. We took in a little more Parisian aroma and reminded ourselves we can always come back.
*The writer dined at the restaurant. |